Delancey Wine at 35 Essex Street, New York, New York.

Nice, clean, well laid-out and friendly. It's small so the selection is limited, but you can find a general bottle in the mid-range and Ben, the owner, is open, affable, and keeps his ears open to the customers.

In a nutshell - for this hood, it's rather perfect because it's not yuppster attitude, or the Lexan cased bottle-slot shop. If there was one thing I would add to the stock would be more Polish vodkas.

Paul